Back to the East

Wednesday, 12 October, 2011

Wildflowers near Ravensthorpe, WA

We commenced our trip back to the East by returning to Cranbrook, Gnowangerup, Ongerup, Jerramungup and then Ravensthorpe. We then spent two nights at Esperance to see Cyril and to stock the cupboards in readiness for the trip across the 'big paddock' once more.

Kimba, SA

Giant Galah, Kimba, SA

Our fuel consumption increased considerably due to a very strong head wind and at one stage we were averaging 31L/100K. We camped at Baxter Rest Area near Caiguna, then at the 52K Peg Rest Area and next the caravan park at Wirrulla. After Wirrulla we travelled through or past Yantanabee, Cungena, Poochera, Minnipa, Pygery, Wudinna and then stopped for lunch at Kimba, "halfway across Australia" and home of the 'Giant Galah'. We were able to ring Cynthia for her birthday and then continued through Port Augusta and Peterborough and eventually camped at Terowie's old railway station. This station was once the point where north bound and southbound trains met and because of the different gauge of the lines, all freight and passengers had to be transferred from one train to the other. It is also the site where US General, Douglas Macarthur delivered his famous lines, "I have come out of Bataan, but I shall return" in his first press conference in Australia during World War Two.

We then refuelled at Hallett and continued to Burra and Morgan. Our trip was then delayed by a screw in the front tyre of the ute but after getting it repaired at Barmera we continued to Renmark and then spent the night at Cullulleraine's Bushman's Caravan Park on the edge of a lake. Thursday, 20th was spent travelling past Mildura, Euston, Balranald, where we enjoyed a quite good chinese lunch and then to Hay and spent the night near Darlington Point at Birdcage Reserve Rest Area East.

On Friday we carefully entered Griffith and set up and tried to hide at the Caravan Village. We then had a quick trip into town for some 80's clothing for the party and fortunately we weren't recognised by anyone.

The trip proved to be worthwhile as Cynthia, Jane and all our friends were very surprised and the party was great.

Graham has a harvest truck driving job in Temora so we will stay in this area until after Christmas and then will resume our travels.

Still Wandering

Wednesday, 5 October, 2011

We arrived in Mt Barker to find there was nowhere suitable for us to park. It was suggested to us that we could camp at the Kendenup Showground. Upon arrival at Kendenup we discovered that the campsite had been closed because someone had claimed that they had become ill from the water. The locals said they all use the same water and we decided to stay there as it was a very friendly town and close to the Porongurup Range.

From Kendenup we explored Mt Barker where we visited a Mongolian Yurt, a round, transportable form of housing which proved to be very interesting. Mt Barker's main attractions seem to be vineyards and wineries.

We then tackled the Porongurups. Castle Rock was our first challenge, a very steep climb, lots of huge rocks but absolutely worth the effort as the view from the walkway at the top was spectacular. We had just started our decent when a storm hit the mountains and we were all soaked by the heavy rain and hail. The wildflowers were in abundance as a large wild fire had consumed the area in 2007 and this had prompted the wildflowers to germinate to re-vegetate the area. Our next climb was not as steep but a lot longer and up and down hill after hill. It was interesting as each area has different wildflowers and views.

The wildflowers around the showground at Kendenup were some of the best we had seen.

On Tuesday, after talking to Bruce on the phone, we decided to pack up and head for home to help Cynthia celebrate her "big" birthday and to help Bruce and Helen with some work on their house. Bruce and Helen were the only ones who knew of our plan to surprise Cynthia.

To "up land" We Go

Thursday, 15-9-2011

Finally left Pinjarra and headed inland again and the first "up" town we found was Dwellingup. "Up" at the end of the names means "place of", and every second name seems to end with "up" in the bottom part of WA. As it was raining heavily we passed through and proceeded to Boddington, Bannister and then stopped at Wandering for lunch in the park in the cold wind and misty rain. Not much to see in these little towns.

We called into Pingelly but apart from some nice old buildings, there was not much there. We continued down the Southern Highway where we found Popanyinning and a great little caravan park, "Laze Away", on a farm about 4kms from town with all kinds of animals, wombat, kangaroos, peacocks, pigs, sheep, cows, chooks, ducks, geese and cats and dogs, of course.

Next day we moved southwards to Narrogin, but no where to stay so we continued on to Highbury for lunch and then we found Wagin, pron. Wait-jen. They have an RV area at the 

showground where we could have power and water for $8 per night. From there we had a drive to Arthur River and then spent the next few days in Wagin as the weather turned cold and wet. Wagin is also home to the Big Ram but it is not as big as Goulburn's Big Merino. On Thursday we packed up and travelled passed Woodanilling and then to Katanning where there are many lovely, old and impressive buildings. Katanning was and is still a very prosperous agricultural area, with large grain, sheep and wool handling facilities. Apparently there was a small earthquake at approximately 1.00 pm on Friday while we were having a lovely roast lunch at the pub, roast pork or

Wagin, WA

lamb and pavlova for $10. No wonder we didn't notice the earthquake. Katanning also has an adult sized playground which I couldn't resist trying.
Kojonup was our next stop where they have an RV area in the old railway precinct across the road from the Info Centre. Lots of great wildflower drives and walks around Kojonup, the best being "Myrtle Benn Flora & Fauna Reserve". Myrtle was a teacher who encouraged her students to preserve the area to protect the flora and fauna. This was really the start of our wildflower search. From Kojonup we were able to take a drive to Broomehill, Tambellup and Gnowangerup. Gnowangerup's hotel, which was closed for renovations, was apparently once owned by Ned Kelly's sister. Back at Kojonup there is a Rose Maze with plaques which record the lives of three pioneering women of the area, one aboriginal, one english and the other italian. They all had similar problems, troubles and joys in their hard lives in the early days of the area. Unfortunately we were a bit early to see the roses in full bloom.



Cranbrook was our next resting place. Nice little country town with friendly people, clean, cheap caravan park and lots of wildflowers. From Cranbrook we took a drive through the Stirling Ranges where we saw great views of the area and many wildflowers. We visited several art and craft displays, photography displays and several smaller towns including Tenderden and Amelup where we found an old dutch style windmill which was originally a flour mill.

Pinjarra, WA

Tuesday, 30-8-11

We moved to Pinjarrah Park Country Camping, a quiet park set on a farm three kilometers from Pinjarra. We were surrounded by wildlife, the prettiest little Fairy Wrens, honey eaters of several varieties, 28's, and lots and lots of rabbits. Most of the male travellers were wishing they had their guns or traps with them. There were a couple of campfire sites and a good supply of wood. We had some great neighbours and shared a few campfires and happy hours.

Pinjarra is set on the banks of the Murray River, WA and the river runs through the park.

Supreme Fairy Wren, Pinjarra, WA

We attended the National Antique Tractor and Engine Rally at Fairbridge Village for all three days. It was a fairly well run rally with a good variety of machinery represented.
Fairbridge Village was where immigrant children were housed after they were brought to Australia from England during and after World War II, supposedly as orphans.

Chapel, Fairbridge Village, WA

Thrombolites, Lake Clifton, WA

After the rally we decided to stay at Pinjarra for another week or so. We had a drive to Waroona, Preston Beach and then to Lake Clifton where we saw 'thrombolites'. Thrombolites are called 'living rocks' as they are growing in the shallow water due to minerals in the water clinging together and forming rocks. The water level of the lake was fairly high due to recent rain so the thrombolites were all under water but could be seen from the viewing platform.

We also had a trip to Mandurah but weren't very impressed as it is just another example of a fast growing trendy city.

 

Huntley Bauxite Mine, Pinjarra, WA

The Huntley Bauxite Mine and Refinery trip is very interesting. Bauxite mining is different as bauxite is only about five metres deep, so large areas need to be cleared for the mining process and then regenerated after the bauxite is removed. This mine is, at the moment, the largest in Australia.

More of Perth area

August, 2011

Kings Park, Perth, WA

We spent the month at Bonney's WA Water Ski Park. We had several trips into Perth on the train and visited Kings Park, which is truly beautiful although we think it would be even more beautiful in September when the wildflowers are in full flower. The views are great as the park is set high on a hill overlooking the city and the Swan River. We climbed the replica Kokoda Track, very steep but not as difficult as what the Diggers had to contend with. We walked up the steep steps but many crazy office workers were running up during their lunch break.
Other trips into the city were to the Truck and Trailer Show and the Motor Show.

View from Kings Park, Perth, WA

We also met up with Trish & Milton Cartwright, who were at Mandurah to see their family and new grandson. Had a couple of lovely days with them and they also shared our trip to the Motor Show. Crawf won two tickets to the Motor Show so it made a cheap day out for us all.
 We had another trip to Fremantle to see the great Maritime Museum, very interesting display including Australia II which won the America's Cup.

Sunset near Fremantle, WA

We have had a few quiet days, meeting fellow travellers and exchanging information about campsites and interesting things to see. The weather is improving and the water skiers are starting to come out.  

Closer to Perth

Butcher's shop, Beverley, WA

Monday, 11-7-11 to Saturday, 23-7-11

Well we have done it again, it's raining in Beverley. We arrived last night and the rain started not long after we settled in. Beverley is a small country town about 100k from Perth. We stayed in doors today, too wet to go out.

On Tuesday we ventured out to the information centre where we met Barry Ferguson and his wife Kathleen. Barry took us to his place to see his collection of old things. It is one of the best collections we have ever seen. He has just about everything old in several sheds at the back of his house and he knows about all the items in the collection. He opens it to the public most weekends and we spent several hours there looking and listening.

We spent two weeks in Beverley, meeting friendly locals, friendly travellers (two couples named Sue and Alan) and taking short drives around the area. Brookton is a nearby town which was worth the drive but not one we would want to stay in. We also had a trip to Avondale Discovery Farm, formerly an Experimental Farm that is now run by the National Trust as a museum and landcare education site. They have a great display of old machinery and a lovely old homestead. Saturday morning we decided to do some shopping and get ready to move on and Crawf bought a raffle ticket at the street stall, and won second prize, a bottle of wine, cooler bag, insulated mug and a carry bag.

Swan Bells, Perth, WA

Sunday, 24-7-11 to Sunday 7-8-11

Swan Bells, Perth, WA

We moved to Bonney's Water Ski Park at Baldivis, just south of Perth.
Spent the first few days exploring the area and had a trip into Perth by train to check out how the train system works and how to get to Shenton Park for Crawf's appointment. The trains are very good. We also went to the Perth Truck and Trailer show at the Convention Centre. The wet weather is still following us and we have had rain nearly every day for two weeks. We also went to Pinjarra to find somewhere to camp when we go to the rally next month. We also managed to get the van licensed in Western Australia.The cost is a lot less than in NSW and no yearly inspections so that will be handy while we are travelling.

Fremantle, WA

Had a great day when we went to see the Swan Bells in Perth. The bells are from St Martins in the Fields in London and are the ones that are mentioned in the children's song, Oranges and Lemons. We were there when six bell ringers were practicing and it was great to see and hear them in action. The tower also houses a carillon of 18 bells (electrically rung) which rings at regular times during the day. The bell tower overlooks the Swan River and provides great views of the city and river. We had a ride on a CAT bus (Central Area Transport) which is a free ride around areas of the city if you have a valid transit ticket, a good way to get around.

Sunday was a nice fine day so we went by train to Fremantle. Visited the Fremantle Markets and the Ship Wreck Museum and were amazed how many ships came to grief along the WA coast in years past. Also had a CAT bus trip around to see the lovely old buildings.

More Interesting Country Towns

Saturday, 2-7-2011

Cunderdin was our first stop today where we found a great museum in an old water pumping building and also another "Ettamogah Pub". From Cunderdin we moved to Meckering, the scene of a devastating earthquake in 1968 when the whole town was destroyed without the loss of any lives.

Homestead ruins at Meckering, WA

Sunday, 3-7-2011

We had a good look around the town area of Meckering and drove out of town a couple of kilometres to see the ruins of an old farm homestead where a baby was asleep in her cot in the middle of the home but survived the earthquake.
There are only a few sites left untouched in the area that show the impact of the quake as most of the rubble was removed for safety reasons.
We then went on to Northam where we had trouble getting into the caravan park and there was no where else to camp. We won't be recommending this park to any other larger rigs.

Northam, WA

We spent 4 nights at Northam and did several drives around the area to view the lovely old towns and buildings in the area. Toodyay is another historic old town nearby.

Toodyay, WA

Thursday, 7-7-2011

This morning, after a lot of maneuvering, we left Northam Caravan Park and wandered on to York, the oldest inland town in Western Australia. We had a visit to the info centre and a look around the main street and received some advice that the caravan park was expensive and that we would be able to camp at Gwambygine Rest Area, about 11kms from town. This proved to be a great spot on the banks of the Avon River so we stayed two nights.

Avon River, Gwanbygine Rest Area, WA

Saturday, 9-7-2011

We packed up camp and moved back into York caravan park for one night. We had a good look around the town and visited the Car Museum and the markets. Most of the shops and attractions are open on weekends to cater to the day trippers from Perth.

Sunday, 10-7-2011

The York Motor Show was held in Avon Park and the range of motor vehicles was amazing. From the very old, not so old and the new, to rare and even some motor bikes. Took lots of photos of the cars and then the magnificent old town hall and then travelled to Beverley.

Town Hall, York, WA

York, WA

Still heading inland

Monday, 20-6-11

Wave Rock, Hyden, WA

We continued our trip inland, moving towards Hyden. We visited the small town of Varley, just a small town in an agricultural area but it has a very cute rabbit cemetery. The cemetery is in memory of all the rabbits who lost their lives because of the Rabbit Proof Fence.

Hippo's Yawn, Hyden, WA

We then arrived at Hyden and booked into the Wave Rock Caravan Park as there are no campsites in the area. After lunch we tackled the Wave Rock and Hippo's Yawn Walks.
The rock formations are just magnificent.

A 'tafone', Hyden, WA

Most of the rocks in this area are tafoni (which is plural for tafone). A tafone is formed when salt crystals which are trapped within the rock are eroded away resulting in a hole or crack forming in the rock and then erosion causes the rock to split or crack.

The walks are sometimes gradual but sometimes quite steep. We managed them quite well but had a couple of ache the next day. We walked about six kilometers that afternoon as we decided to walk to the Breakers, a smaller version of Wave Rock before it got dark.

Tuesday, 21-6-11

Today we drove approximately 20ks to the Humps and Mulka's Cave. Here we found more spectacular rocks to climb and admire. Mulka's Cave has some of the most significant rock art in Western Australia. Most of the art work has been done by stenciling.

Rock Art, Mulka's Cave, Hyden, WA

Here we saw some great examples of tafoni and gnammas. A gnamma is a waterhole formed in the rock by erosion.

A 'gnamma', The Humps, Hyden, WA

Crawf at the Humps, Hyden, WA

Street sculptures, Hyden, WA

After our long walk around the rocks in the morning we went into Hyden for lunch. Hyden has some very interesting street sculptures which tell the history of the town. They are all made from old scrap metal and make a great tourist stopping point. After lunch we went back to the caravan park where we visited a wildlife park with some interesting animals and then a toy soldier display which proved to me that some men never grow up, a brilliant display.

Wednesday, 22-6-11

Kondinin was our next stop after refuelling at Hyden. Kondinin is a small farming town in the middle of red soil farming land. We had our lunch and walked along the main street where we found an op-shop which Crawf had to look at. While there he was asked to draw the local raffle.

Swimming Pool at Gorge Rock, WA

We then went to Gorge Rock and set up camp in the rest area. At one time there was a hall, tennis courts, sports ground, school, swimming pool, scout campsite and amphitheatre at this site. The swimming pool which was constructed by damming an area between the rocks was kept clean and drained annually by the locals and the area was a very popular spot in years gone by.

Thursday, 23-6-11

Moving towards our next stay we passed through Corrigin, a nice little town with a very interesting dog cemetery.

Corrigin, WA

Corrigin, WA

 The doggie graves are often very elaborate and sometimes very basic.

Corrigin also holds the record for the number of Dogs in Utes. They surely love their dogs in this area.

We then travelled north to Bruce Rock, another small farming town.

 

 Friday 24-6-11 and Saturday 25-6-11

Bruce Rock is a very friendly town, we talked to the locals in the street, shops and at the sports club. Bruce Rock is not as large and spectacular as some of the rocks we saw at Hyden.

We had a walk around the rock and then decided to drive to Muntadgin and had a picnic lunch at the rest area there. There is a very traditional country pub but it was closed and I suspect it only opens for local special events.

The Munty Pub, Muntadgin, WA

A well at Bruce Rock, WA

Sunday, 26-6-11

Today we travelled towards Quairading, on the way we stopped at Shackleton for a picnic lunch next to the smallest bank in Australia and then continued to Quairading. Checked into the caravan park as the free campsite at Kokerbin Rock was too small for us. Good value in the caravan park, pay for 2 nights stay for 3.

It works out at $11 per night.

Quairading is only 165k from Perth and is a very large grain growing area, when it rains.

Kokerbin Rock is reported to be the third largest monolith in Australia.
It has some very spectacular views from the summit which both Crawf and I managed to reach. We are becoming very good rock climbers.
Some of the rock formations are as good as those at Wave Rock.

Kokerbin Rock, WA

Kokerbin Rock, WA

Smallest Bank in Australia, Shackleton, WA



 Quairading has several interesting sites including the Pink Lake which is blue on one side of the road and pink on the other. The pink colouring is caused by some bacteria in the water combined with the salt which is very highly concentrated in the lake.

Pink Lake, Quairading, WA

Remains of Rabbit Proof Fence No. 2
Corrigin  to Quairading, WA

Grain Silo sign, Quairading, WA

 The remains of No.2 Rabbit Proof Fence can be seen in several locations. There were 3 fences built in WA in the early 1900's in an attempt to keep rabbits out of the state.

Miniature road train, Quairading, WA

Other things of interest in Quairading are the signs around the town depicting the grains grown in the area. They are represented by the grain family of Wesley Wheat, Basil Barley, Ollie Oats and Lucy Lupin. The sign near the grain handling silo is possibly the funniest.
Crawf went to visit the local Vintage Machinery Club and discovered a wonderful little miniature road train. It is used as a children's ride at the local festivals and fund raisers.

Looking around WA

Saturday, 4-6-11 to Friday, 17-6-11

Debris from crashed Sky Lab, Esperance, WA


Esperance is a very pretty harbour with a long jetty and a very large shipping wharf.

We checked the town facilities and arranged to meet Cyril, Crawf's cousin, who we supplied with family history information. He and his daughter, Suzanne, were very surprised to get this info.

On Sunday we had fish & chips on the waterfront and then spent the entire afternoon browsing through the local museum. The museum has some very interesting displays, including a display about the Sky Lab that crashed over the area in 1979, debris littered the area and the shire council fined the USA government $400 dollars for littering. This fine was finally paid in about 2009.

Monday began very damp but improved so we were able to go on an island cruise. We cruised passed several islands and saw sea lions and seals on many of the rocks. We also saw a pair of sea eagles who eagerly await the boat for a feed of fish. They are very large, graceful birds with incredible eyesight.

Whistling Rock, Cape Le Grande NP
Esperance, WA


We then landed on Woody Island which is set up as an enviro camping area, with small huts and camp kitchens etc. Heidi, Suzanne's daughter, was our guide and she took us on a long walk around the island, showing us the plants and animals.
The weather held until we were nearly back to Esperance when the rain set in again.

The next few days were wet and cold so we didn't go out very often. When the sky cleared we went on several great drives around the area. Great Ocean drive, west of Esperance, and Cape Le Grande National Park, to the east, have great views of the coastline, cliffs, rocks and beaches.

We had the ute serviced while in Esperance, were unable to get the generator repaired so will have to wait until we get to Perth for this. We spent the next few days catching up with Cyril, Suzanne and some of her family, cleaning the van and ute and waiting for some wheel studs for the ute to arrive from Gympie.

Seals, Esperance, WA


We have decided to head inland again, towards Wave Rock and the wheat belt to avoid the windy weather along the southern coast and will visit that area in the springtime.

Saturday, 18-6-11

Left Esperance and travelled to towards Ravensthorpe. We have been intrigued by the names in WA. Most of the towns in the south of the state end with up, eg. Munglinup, Dalyup, Jerdacuttup and Jerramungup just to mention a few and the names in the north of the state end in down although most of these are property or station names.
We spent the night at an old mining town site, Kundip, in a rest area on our own, it was very quiet.

Sunday, 19-6-11

Went for a drive to the coastal town of Hopetoun, with the hope of seeing whales but our hopes were dashed because of the really rough sea. Hopetoun is possibly a great place in spring and summer but most places were closed for the winter but we managed to find a nice lunch. We then returned to Ravensthorpe, refuelled and headed north to Lake King which is a large farming area and only 30kms from the "Rabbit Proof Fence". This fence is the longest fence in the world, 3,236.8 kms.